Day 3, Day 2 of Back Road Cruise-I'safjὄr₫ur



12 species of whales feed here. Since they are feeding and not mating, they only come up briefly and then go down for 45 minutes. There were several pilot whales and dolphins along side our ship today.




We have sailed up to the Western Fjords to the oldest port of Iceland. The fjord looks like antlers with many points or fingers.  35 million years ago this land was cut by massive glaciers. Skutulsfjordur is the largest fjord in Westfjords. Isafjὄr₫ur is the main town. A pilot boat met us at the entrance to help the captain sail safely into the harbor.


Beginning in 1958 there were skirmishes between Iceland and the UK called the Cod Wars. UK began fishing near the Western Fjords, even cutting nets of Icelanders. Iceland threatened to leave NATO. Iceland is in a very strategic location-near Finland thus near Russia so US told UK to back off. The UK sailors finally did after several years.  It is the only “war” Iceland has ever been in.


Isafjὄr₫ur (Ice Fjord)-“Red Town” due to first to recognize women and union rights also a form of communism. Iceland first  to have a woman president, and she was from this area. There are 3000 inhabitants.


The water is so clear that there are beautiful, perfect reflections of the mountains.




Valagil Falls -story of a woman called Vala who jumped to her death after her husband died at sea


Midway up the falls looking down.


Buna Waterfall


Lovely wildflowers that remind me of purple Queen Ann Lace



Snaefjallastrὄnd mountain chain, Drangajὄkull glacier
“Table Top” Mountains-layers of lava left after glaciers receded

Glacier colors: white on top because of oxidizing; blue in the middle because of the pressure from the weight that pushes out air so that only as becomes more dense only blue light is reflected. Black often in stripes due to volcanic ash.




Avalanche protection is critical. Iceland has had 53 deaths over the past 30 years. Investing in the protection has dropped numbers in the past years.


Below is Sῡdavik, a small fishing village completely covered and destroyed from avalanche in 1995. On the mountains now surrounding it is structures that protect the town from avalanches





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